Letters from W. H. Webster (2), (Father of Mrs Ritchie, who transcribed these writings), to the family. Written on the voyages to Japan and China and whilst there.
P & O S.N. Co.
SS. Khiva.
21st October 1927.
We have had very smooth sailing so far since we left London. I believe nobody has been ill, excepting one or two who have been feeling the heat, or having innoculations on board. There are nearly a dozen young children and they have had a good time. Down the Thames was not very interesting, and the Bay of Biscay was smiling in the sun. We had a good view of Gibraltar on Sunday afternoon, - I believe it was 4. p.m. It is a wonderful rock, on one side almost sheer down to the sea. Great masses of concrete have been fixed on one part, to carry the water down to the tanks for storage. A very narrow strip connects the Rock with the mainland, where most of the people live. On the opposite shore, and as far as we could see, North Africa is very mountainous, but we could not see much from the distance.
<<<<<<<<<<<2 photos>>>>>>>>>> Cabin No 10.(See arrow behind funnel). Rock of Gibraltar (from the top). Mr Webster was on the SS. Khiva . from 12th Oct to Mid Dec 1927. <<<<< end >>>>>>>
Further back the coast of Spain was in sight for a long time; that was pretty hilly and broken; the hills mostly appeared to be rather bare.
We saw the white houses of Tunis in the distance amongst the hills, and between there and Algiers we had a heavy thunderstorm, the lightning continuing for about 5 hours; it was quite beautiful to watch. We passed Malta but it was to hazy to see it.
Tomorrow Saturday, we call at Port Said for coaling, - a few hours and most of the passengers go ashore a bit to escape the coal dust. I shall get a topee - white helmet, as the sun from there on will be too hot for ordinary hats and would make the water on my brain bubble !!
We are probably to stay in Colombo three days. It is monotonous going for days without seeing anything but water, but the air is lovely and the sea is like `Reckitts Blue`. The cabin stewards and the table stewards are dark men and very efficient; - at 7.30. they bring tea and biscuits, with an apple or orange. Then a bath - sea water, and a rinse with fresh. Breakfast 9.0. a.m. - Lunch 1.0. p.m. - Afternoon tea 4.0. p.m. - Dinner 7.0. p.m. Plenty of food and good variety. Am eating well. A few hours a day at study, - tho` that is not so easy when others are playing games, reading or dozing. 2 - 4 p.m. - no games, most have a nap or loll about. Have not worn a hat since leaving England, and collars are becoming too warm. To-day the officers and stewards have commenced with their white deck suits. I hear that in the East, folks buy these cotton suits at about 7/6d each, by taking a dozen.
We are now more or less in a state of perspiration, so I don`t know whether the heat or the eat will win, that is whether my weight will keep down or go up! I believe so far the latter is the case.
We put the clocks 24 minutes a day at present, - going nearly due East. My cabin, unfortunately, has 3 bunks occupied, but at Singapore the other two men go off. We have now got the wind scoops fixed outside the portholes to bring more air in - also two pairs in the cabin. Our clothes, - of course, - we hang up to dry, so the cabin is a picture - white shirts, tennis shirts, coloured shirts, pyjamas, socks, boots etc. etc, for the wardrobe is inadequate for three.
My cabin mates are a young fellow of 20, rather a fop, who thinks, that as he has started on his career in the East, that he has already all the world at his feet, but he will find out he has not.
The other, a Bank official, a Scotsman and very jolly, but sleeps all afternoon and comes to bed 1. or 2. a.m. The first night my snoring astonished them, so I advised them to get to sleep first! One night, the Scotty, after a visit until 2. a.m. to a friend`s cabin, asked him to come to our cabin, to be shown something very startling, - my snoring. When they got there I was sleeping as quietly as a young babe, so I had the laugh at them.
Deck Quoits and Deck Tennis are good games; I will tell the boys about them later; the latter is a warm game.
We get news sheets in the Music room each morning by wireless.
The natives sit on their haunches on the foredeck round a tin dish of curry, rice, etc, getting some in their fingers, they work it together and feed. No washing up required. They pass their drink round in a can.
There is a little dancing at night, but I don`t see much in the modern dances. I had a short polka last night and pranced along the deck at a big speed, - loud cheers from the spectators, - but it is too hard work at my time of life.
We have an Admiral aboard as passenger to Port Said, and he plays the piano beautifully and is a good sport altogether.
There is one family of five going to Hong Kong, where the father is; the children would enjoy this trip.
It will be good to get news from home, but nobody expects much at Port Said, as letters would have to be sent off soon after we left.
My travelling clock is going very well and will be very useful.
To-day, 85 deg in the shade, but a nice breeze. Feeling very fit and manage to get a few games and am using my chest expander, so getting back my old muscle!
Will write more before getting to Colombo. (Ceylon).
P & O S.N. Co.
SS Khiva.
23rd October 1927.
Yesterday we arrived at Port Said 2. p.m. All sorts of Officers came on board; first the Quarantine Officer, to see if we had any illnesses aboard, then Police, followed by various others, and last of all a few boat loads of coolies, who seemed unfit to even live in Castlegate (Editors note:- this used to be the poorest of the poor slums in Huddersfield, - long since demolished), to carry 700 tons of coal off the lighters alongside. They shout and chant as they work, - shovelling the coal into baskets and handing them from hand to hand. They did the lot in 5 hours, leaving the ship very dirty. The passengers mainly cleared off ashore, away from the dirt. The heat was fairly intense.
I got a `white helmet`, see photo, and also some thin khaki shorts and bathing costume, as we are having a sail bath fixed up aboard. We spent a few hours in the port, had some light lager beer, watched a native conjurer, who turned a 2/- piece into a tin coin ,whilst I held it. I allowed him a 1/- of it - and other tricks. I posted you two boxes of Turkish Delight and one of Nougat, so hope you will receive it.
Left 9. p.m. - Suez Canal - going slowly. Did not get far during the night for mist in the canal. Very close. This morning it is jolly hot. Passed thru` "Bitter Lakes". Some shallow portions looked almost like solid salt. There is a lot of old barbed wire still about the East bank of the canal, a relic of the fights with the Turks in the war. (Editor:- World War 1.) Hundreds of natives working along the banks, altho` Sunday, and how they stand the hot sun and glare of the sand is astonishing.
A few camels here and there carrying loads of stones on their backs and other merchandise; also mules with lads clad in flowing dirty robes. Have no sharks - film style.
Just got dark as we entered Suez - Fine sunset behind the hills. It looks very hilly in front! Expect to be 3 days going through the Dead Sea. (which is green).
Sunday 30th October 1927.
It has been too hot to write and not a lot to write about. The Red Sea seems to be the limit in damp heat, - when you have a following wind as we had. All on board seemed to be in a continuous state of perspiration, and cabins like a laundry with suits, shirts etc, etc, hanging under the fans to dry a bit. We have two fans in our cabin and porthole usually open but you can`t get cool. Now we have got out of the Gulf of Aden. We passed Perim, at southern end of the Red Sea, said to be the hottest place on earth, when no wind is stirring. Fortunately we had a breeze, and now have a head wind, so by getting at the windward side, we can cool down. When you lie on the bed, the perspiration at once starts to ooze out. If you do not perspire you have to be careful.
<<< Photo & captions >>> Left to right. 1. Mr Copeland (Scotch laddie). 2. Mr W.H. Webster (2) Yorkshire laddie. 3. Mr Stradley. Yorkshire laddie. 4. Mr Reid. Scotch laddie.
Port Said. 22nd October 1927. <<<< end photo >>>. P & O. S.N. Co. SS Khiva.
8th November 1927.
We reached Penang (Malay States) tonight - midnight. About a dozen passengers disembark; we stay ten or twenty hours, then a day further to Port Swettenham and on to Singapore.
Here it is the rainy season, but we have had none yet. Last night beautiful sheet lightning in the distance and this morning cooler.
Last night there was an Invitation Race meeting on deck - toy horses. I got a dressing gown and ladies mask, old gamp with `Anti-Gambling` chalked round it and interrupted the business. The "Bookies" carried me to the rail to throw me overboard!! However they dumped me on the deck instead. All settled down at 11. p.m. except in odd cabins, - No 10 being one. Our Scots cabin mate gave us one of his displays of "quack auctioneering", imitations of farmyard pets etc. He ought to have been on the stage, instead he is in a Bank.
The sunsets here are beautiful, as we are going due East; they are astern and generally about 5.30 p.m. The colours change every minute or two and at times you can easily imagine you are looking at a distant landscape of gold, yellow and red, with hills, plains and lakes of these colours, the Captain tells me he has often seen water-spouts, but never knew anybody who had been under one. After the spout, fishes are dropping from the clouds, in all directions for miles around.
After Singapore we go North to Hong Kong, where it will begin to get cooler and at Shanghai expect winter.
After three weeks perspiring, I am actually dry once more, but here, people take it as a matter of course, that they will have a damp skin most of the time and nobody seems any the worse for it.
W.H. Webster.
P & O. S. N. Co.
SS Khiva
10th November 1927.
Penang (Malay). We are still here. At most of our stops the cargo takes longer unloading than expected, a lot of it being iron girders etc. The natives are rather afraid of it falling on their toes. In addition to that, heavy rain has fallen once or twice, making it necessary to cover up the hold to keep various goods dry.
To day I went with a few others outside Penang and up the hill railway 2300 feet above sea level. The gradient in some places is 1 in 1.9, about as steep as the top of Dalton hill climb, but much longer. The view is wonderful - of the Straits Islands - mountains and rich vegetation, miles of palm trees and matted undergrowth. Beautiful birds, lizards etc, are seen. We saw a procession of ants across the path in close order and on making a little trench with my stick to impede their progress, their formation was disorganised and the scout ants ran around to try and maintain order. Their line could be traced along tree trunks and away down the bank out of sight. We did not attempt to count them.
I got weighed at the Hill Station, and am 115 gatties = 153 lbs - rather more than usual, in spite of three weeks perspiration!
There are mosquitoes about, but so far thay have missed me. We leave tomorrow for Port Swettenham, so shall be late at Singapore, which, by the way, will be the hottest place we stop at. After starting North for the China coast, we soon get into cooler weather and shall cast our cotton suits etc.
Penang is the nicest place I have yet seen; the heavy rains and hot sun bring on the vegetation to a most luxuriant state. Coconuts in their green casing, cluster in the trees and wonderfully brilliant coloured flowers and leaves with a fine aroma.
In the hotel, after the lights are on there are small lizards of 6 ins or 8 ins on the walls or ceilings, catching flies or other insects; these are taken as a matter of course and one gets used to having a few small cockroaches running around the bunk.
The Jinrickshaw` men here are very sturdy and run at a steady pace quite easily. About 6d per mile is decent pay for them. Most of them here are South Chinese and very cheery fellows, in bare legs and feet.
Port Swettenham (Federated Malay States).
14th November 1927.
We did not leave Penang until midnight Friday, so arrived at the above Port, Saturday at dusk. These delays have been awkward for wives and sweethearts, whose people were to meet them. One lady has had to postpone her wedding for a few days and the boat actually berthed opposite to No 13 warehouse!!! This place is called "Hell`s Frying Pan" and it is not inappropriate. It is a few miles up a wide sluggish river, between Penang and Singapore and rather an important centre.
The river and creeks around are surrounded with mangrove trees and swamps. In the mud are a good many crocodiles and other interesting creatures, tho` you don`t see many from the boat. Most days heavy rain falls and with a hot sun, you can guess it is somewhat steamy. To-day for a time the unloading of cement had to be stopped owing to rain. Most of the coolies are Chinese and their shouting over their work is very monotonous. The mosquitoes have not bothered me yet, but on the quayside (not our side) they get through the portholes and have raised lumps on the passengers - including children. I think I am not now tender enough - but "touch - wood".
Many of the passengers clear out to the hills when we stop in port but it makes it expensive. We had a run out to Kuala Lumpar, 28 miles inland; the roads are excellent. Most of the country is well covered with palms on which are branches of coconuts.
There are also great estates of rubber planting. The bark at the proper time is nicked down, half round the trunk to a "V" shape, and the liquid gradually leaks down to a tin spout and then into a cup, rather like a tea cup without a handle, then it is collected; it is white and creamy in substance. Each year it is tapped in a fresh place. I believe it takes two or three trees to produce a pound. Between trees they dig big trenches to retain the rain; I was told that last year there were 48 inches of rain in 19 hours. The annual rainfull in England, I think , is 33 inches, you can therefore understand the vegetation being thick.
Plenty of big and small game is found inland, snakes in plenty and when all is quiet on the boat, you can hear many sounds from the jungle.
We should be in Singapore Tuesday morning, and possibly leave in 12 hours for Hong Kong, as the cargo is much lower. A few thousand tons have already been cleared and owing to bad management in London, in getting the cargo mixed, we have lost days. I would not come on the boat again; it is a sort of reserve and gets on too slowly. Canada is far preferable I hear and little different in expense; for when you keep having to go ashore to miss the dirt and noise in these boats, you have to pay rather heavily for it.
P & O. S.N. Co
SS Khiva
18th November 1927.
China Sea. Singapore to Hong Kong.
We left Singapore Monday 4 p.m. and should be in Hong Kong Monday early. The former is a very interesting place and in the shops are most interesting goods of Eastern make, but I kept outside, for these constant calls at new places tempt one to empty ones pockets too fast. Had a run through the Botanical Gardens which have most wonderful vegetation, and on the outskirts fine bungalows and other residences for the big folks, many of them Chinese. In fact in Malay and surrounding islands, Chinamen seem to almost be in the preponderance. There are great numbers with rickshaws and dock labourers, and they are most sturdily built , much more so than the Indian and Tamil type. Their back and leg muscles are tremendous. They do not however live to a big age.
In Singapore harbour a lot of natives came around in light canoes and dived after coins thrown for them by the passengers - their swimming was wonderful and they were back into their canoes in a few seconds without overturning them. Then they stood up with their short oars, cleverly knocked a ball backward and forward to each other.
The islands in the Straits were very picturesque and hilly. Now we are in the open sea, but we shall pass more islands further North and also expect rougher weather. It is still hot, but in a day or two - after Hong Kong, will be cold. The boat is pitching at times, but I am still continuing to pitch good meals down my throat and am very well.
Last night a big rat ran through the Music Room jumping on an old lady`s knee as it passed; the others of course soon jumped on their chairs. There are lots of rats, some have visited the cabins , also mice, cockroaches, small ants and a few mosquitoes and people are annoyed. The smells from the kitchen and other places are at times, very unpleasant. When the native crew are feeding on the foredeck from tins of curry, garlic etc, the fumes are wafted along the First Class. To say the least this "Khiva" is no credit to the P & O. Folks speak highly of the Blue Funnel Line from Liverpool. Their boat left Liverpool 3 days after ours and is now in Hong Kong.
Hong Kong.
21st November 1927.
Got here 7. a.m.
Very striking place and hilly. Yesterday got warning of a typhoon, but it turned North and missed us.
We were then 260 knots south of here. The typhoon season is really over, - this being the noted spot for these visitations. This morning is fine. Just going ashore to the hill top.
<<< photo >>>>
Between Formosa and Shanghai.
24th November 1927.
We arrive Hong Kong 21st November, 8. a.m. and left next day at noon. It was very hot there and was glad to have a lift on the tram - up a terrific gradient, to the Peak, where a wonderful view is obtained of numerous islands, North & South, and of the town and the bay below. If you put about 20 Castle Hills, ( Editor:- A noted Huddersfield landmark - an Iron Age settlement), in the form of an island, it would only give you a slight idea of Hong Kong, and when the myriad lights are on at dark, the picture could scarcely be beaten. The buildings in the main portion are very fine and impressive, - up to 6 and 8 stories high, massive frontages, with the verandahs around each storey, for in summer the heat is great.
Between Hong Kong and the Phillipines Islands is the favourite ground of the Typhoons. A stray, - one late in the season, - not a really bad one, missed us last Sunday; Hong Kong got a bit of it, but as the Meteorological office there hoists signals, when one is about, the small craft run for harbour and steamers clear all loose stuff off deck and sometimes can go out of their course and miss the worst of it.
In Hong Kong was lots of shipping; a Naval Aircraft Carrier with no funnel showing, 4 submarines etc, "The Empress of Canada" came alongside us, - C.P.R boat. I went aboard; she is more like an hotel than a boat, with big entrances or vestibule, long lounges or promenades, music room, gymnasium, swimming bath, lifts etc. I shall try and return via Canada; these boats are too slow and too many rats, mice, cockroaches, small ants, though it is hard to keep these things away in the tropics.
We left Hong Kong Tuesday noon and after going past various islands, got into the open, where the N. East Monsoon was blowing pretty strong. Gradually it got wilder and we were running across hill and dale of water, with spray flying in all directions. Most of the ladies disappeared or reclined in deck chairs. Fortunately the wind was steady and we have not rolled much, but when the stern of the boat comes down smack on the water, the boat shivers and if one is in the bunk, it almost dances you up with nose against the bunk above. Personally I have enjoyed the blow and yesterday smoked a black Burmese Cheroot and that is SOME!
We have a game of deck quoits with the Captain about 4.30 p.m. and occasionally a game of draughts in the smoking cabin after dinner.
To-morrow we arrive at Shanghai on the Whangpoo river at noon and as the "Khiva" stays a day, I hope to go and see one or two agents.
The coast, by the way, opposite Hong Kong Island was very mountainous and road or tracks could be seen winding over to the interior from Kowloon,where we berthed towards Canton. I posted you a letter in Hong Kong, which may reach you after this, as I did not put on "Via Siberia". (Editor:- The letters used to take 17 days via Siberia, but several weeks by sea to arrive in England).
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