Letters from W. H. Webster (2), (Father of Mrs Ritchie, who transcribed these writings), to the family. Written on the voyages to Japan and China and whilst there.
Shanghai, which we left on Saturday morning, - 26th, is a great shipping and business centre; on entering the very wide mouth of the Yang-tse river, we branch off up the Whangpoo river, which itself is something like the Mersey. The rivers here are very muddy and going up and down are junks and all sorts of craft.
The Shanghai streets vary from squalid, smelly native quarters, to wide beautiful boulevards. The "Bund", where the palatial business houses and banks etc are, being the chief thoroughfare. Rickshaws abound in all directions. Chinese coolies are very fond of shouting when working and lifting. You can see several pairs of them for instance, carrying part of a tree trunk, or great logs at the docks; each pair have a strong bamboo pole between them and strong rope sling, which is passed round the article they are carrying. Then as they step out, they shout in unison and keep step. When they get excited they sound like a lot of big boys in a playground, especially when coaling the ship in baskets.
The Japanese are much quieter, (and deeper). We arrived in Nagasaki just in the "Rising Sun", 7. a.m. Very beautiful, on an arm of the sea, hilly both sides, town on one side, shipbuilding on the other.
Passport and medical officials came aboard in good time. Officers, crew, and we two passengers had to be on deck in order that they could see we appeared to be fit to enter their precious country. The same thing will happen tomorrow at Moji, (North of here), then at Kobe, (Kobi), and last of all at Yokohama, by which time we should be very fit. I think we should be in, the later part by Saturday, and then Tokyo, where I expect to find plenty of correspondence, and to get a bit of news from England. The news bulletins on board tell little beyond political, flying, and financial events.
It is a sunny morning, more like Spring, - no snow yet. I hardly think I shall trouble to go ashore. We are anchored 1/2 a mile off shore and sail at 4. p.m. We have little cargo left. This boat goes next to India for 9,000 tons of raw cotton for the mills here.
The hills are cultivated, often to the top, in terraces, with buildings at the foot and many houses on the slopes, for there are 60 million people in Japan, and they are short of room. Sheep cannot live here as the Bamboo grass cuts them as they feed.
Disjointed thoughts in a rolling Bunk.
As I lay clutching hard my bunk,
Thought I, - "Suppose this boat is sunk
With all hands aboard" !!!
Without our hands we`d have our feet
And head and mouth wherewith to eat
But could not drive a Ford -
Don`t jeer at Fords; for no matter
With all their faults and well known clatter
Your innards get so used to chatter
That they keep steady in roughest "watter"
How e`er it churned and roared -
She`s a good Sea boat is this old KHIVA
But I shan`t be sorry when I leave `er
And rats and ants and sundry lice
Which admittedly arn`t nice
Then - off I went and SNORED.
Moji (Shimonoseki).
29th November 1927.
Got here 3. p.m. Big brown hawks hover round the ship picking up bits; they are about 3 feet tip to tip of wings.
We should have been in at daybreak, but after leaving Nagasaki yesterday 4. p.m., in lovely weather, a sudden change came in the night, and an eighty mile an hour gale brought on a heavy sea, so instead of doing 13 or 14 knots an hour, we could do only eight. Had we not been low in cargo and high out of the water, our decks would have shipped heavy seas like some we passed, but we only got clouds of spray. I kept quite well, but had to put on boots and overcoat, the temperature having fallen so much.
Between 200 and 300 Jap coolies, including some women, are coaling us - we are having 2300 tons and are to leave 2. p.m. tomorrow for Kobe. Quite a fleet of coal barges around us. On each side three tiers of coolies stand above the barges, and while some rake the coal into baskets, holding perhaps 30 to 40 lbs each, the other hand up at the rate of 50 to 60 per minute. Then 2 derricks are working at top pressure, hauling it up in baskets of 10 to 12 cwts (hundredweights), and tipping them into another hold. I have never seen men work so hard and systematically; I think they are paid by the
(Editor. :-end of the page, rest - possibly lost).
Omori. Tokyo.
18th December 1927.
One of the things that strike you on reaching Japan is what looks like the "cloven hoof". Many of the dock labourers and others wear a soft boot, with the big toe separated; the reason for this to get a hold on the wood sandal affairs they wear when walking, and especially when muddy. The latter of hard wood, and have a strap affair to cover the foot, the forepart being between the toes to give a grip; the big toe goes at one side. They generally have two cross pieces to lift them out of the dirt, varying in height from 1/2 inch to as much as 4 inches. As they patter along the street, you at first look round to see if a horse is trotting behind you. Many wear these wood sandals on their feet. For inside wear they may have cork underneath. The women generally have white cotton socks with the toe piece, and they change frequently.
Many of the Japanese are not pleasant to look at, as their lips rather protrude and their noses are rather flat; this I fancy may be caused by being carried on their Mother`s back when young, with their faces against her back. They, however laugh a good deal and a joke puts them in a good humour. In some ways they are very clean in their habits, but in others, most primitive, especially in the small town or villages.
I went with four other fellows to a Japanese restaurant for an evening meal. On entering we took off our boots and put on sandals - , they never carry dirt into the house. Everything was spotlessly clean, floors and woodwork polished, and room floors covered with thick rush matting which is nice to walk on.
We sat on cushions to the table, which was about 10 inches from the floor, - with our feet under us, or Turkish fashion, this being no easy matter for me. Then, after a time, small dishes of food, some of them very mysterious were set before us, and little cups of sake (sakki) to drink. To eat stew and fragments of fish with chopsticks was no easy matter, but caused much fun. Every time the women came in and out with food, they placed the trays on the floor and Kow-towed very low. With my usual accomodating stomach, I was able to do quite my share at the unusual food! Edible snails eaten from a big shell were quite passable, but somewhat slippery in chopsticks. These places are not cheap, - that evening meal was about 10/- per head, so shall not be in a hurry to repeat it.
The women as a rule wear no hats, for their hair is dressed high on their heads and must stay so for a week or two. Very few bob their hair and are looked down on if they do. A few are starting to dance but generally they think it is a silly habit !
New Year is a big holiday, - 5 day, they go to the Temples and also they have numerous parties, where they studiously avoid reference to unpleasant things of the past, which they must forget. Whether that is the reason they take a lot of Sakki, I don`t know, but they drown their sorrows and memories of bygone days with copious draughts of this Sakki, which is made from rice; it is not really nice. Many people go North for the holiday, where there is skating and skiing. Here it is not very cold, but to-day have had much rain.
Last night I was invited to the German Club for the Annual Xmas evening. I found everybody kind and had quite a pleasant time. Several from this hotel were there.
8th April 1928.
To-day is like midsummer in England, and I am told that in a week or so the heat will commence, although June, with both heat and heavy rains, is a bad time; You have to watch clothes and boots that they do not become mouldy, as nearly everything is damp. July and August, I believe are the hottest. The mosquitoes soon become active and some of the men here say that to be able to play cards comfortably, they have at times had to get a few fans (electric) fixed on the floor around, to keep them from biting their ankles as they sit.
Some wonderfully fine butterflies are to be seen, - later; one man said about 6 inches to 8 inches across the wings. Next day he said about one foot or more. "Oh !" I said "Those will be bats ! No " said an American "they must be eagles". Unfortunately they cannot be sent home, as they get damaged.
Just now I believe things are at the best; the cherry blossom, about which the Japanese go into ecstasies is almost the only thing in my opinion, that is not exaggerated. This delicate pinky blossom is almost a solid mass on many trees, and then as the leaves bud amongst it, it gives a very pretty blending of colours.
The coloured kiminoes of the women, though very bright and very startling in vividness look alright here, as they all have black hair, but in other countries it would, I think, look unsuitable. No hats are worn by the womenfolk, - except by a few who have adopted Western dress, hats, short skirts etc, but the older fashioned folk look at them rather disdainfully. The "Geta" they wear on their feet - or under their feet - to walk on are for fine weather, often of cork. In bad weather, or in fact usually, two cross pieces of hard wood underneath. And the big toe goes on one side of the centre hole, which the straps go through. Therefore their big toes are very big and strong and being spread out well, causes good calf muscles. When a lot of them are hurrying along a station platform the noise is rather deafening. On entering a house they must slip these off.
On the first coming of the railways, the people being strange to such things, used to slip off their "Geta" at the platform edge on entering a train and they were left behind ! In cold times they generally slip them off in the train and sit with their feet under them to warm them; often they fall asleep in that position - sleepiness is common - you often see most of the passengers asleep, - even in a morning, frequently their heads leaning affectionally against the next passenger. Personally I prefer to stand up and let them topple over, - especially if they smell of sake !
Sake is made from rice and looks like pale grren tea, the few times I have had it, it has not affected me at all, but the natives become rather "jolly" after it !!
Nobody shakes hands, they kowtow or bow, sometimes a number of times and often remain bent for, say half a minute, when wishing to show exceptional politeness - each waiting for the other to assume an upright position. I don`t go as low as that but am becoming quite a graceful kowtower, I believe. When doing it round an office table, you are in danger of your nose colliding with the table top. Sometimes you can perceive no expression on their countenance. At others they will laugh uproariously about some matter of a serious nature ! It is a sort of nervousness.
They saw wood with a saw like ours but they do not push when cutting, but pull. When planing wood they plane towards themselves also. They read from right to left and instead of writing across, they write downwards.
Most of them speak with a strong nasal tone, the women rather `Shrilly`. And when they have learnt (?) English with an American, it is not at all easy to understand.
At wood polishing they are very expert; a good house is a treat to look at especially inside. Often the wood is the natural colour, not stained or painted, and so well sandpapered and polished, that it is like glass and easy to keep clean.
The average room is so many "mats" in size; the standard size of a mat being generally about 1 yard by two yards long; they are very nice and soft to walk on, in stockinged, or bare feet, but were they to wear `geta` or boots inside, it would soon ruin the mats.
I had another night in a Japanese hotel last week. The bathing habit (before) the evening meal, is somewhat embarrassing, - not private, but afterwards, having - with a moderate amount of dexterity partaken of a moderate amount of raw fish, rice etc, with chopsticks, I must say it was rather comfortable to sit in a kimono with no collar, on a cushion against a charcoal `bowl`, not over warm however, but the bedding on the floor afterwards was more than sufficient.
Doors generally slide in grooves made so smooth, that with your little finger you can easily push them open. No furniture is used as a rule excepting a nine inch high table, so the lower class have lots of room to sleep on the floor.
The chief method of carrying purchases and other things is by tying them up in a coloured cotton hankerchief affair; the well-to-do usually use silk.
The students generally wear a peaked cap and blue suit and look like a lot of young porters; they are rather an unruly crowd and not very particular about being clean and tidy. Few people seem to care about clean boots.
In this hotel the menu is a mixture of French and English and some strange dishes are named, - tonight, - one was "Beef Pot Roast Gerwan Style". It turned out to be boiled beef slices, roasted, - quite good.
A lot of Koreanese (Chosenese) natives are to be seen here; they all dress in (dirty) white. The men`s trousers are very baggy like Turks and the married men must wear a little brimmed hat on the crown of his head.
Chinese women have feet often only 2 ins across or less, and hobble about awkwardly.
The Japanese landscape is rather peculiar; mountains seem to be as though they had been dropped down by a giant, in small and big piles of earth and rocks; generally very loose and ready to slide.
House, no chimneys - usually, for they have only small - or big bowls of charcoal for warmth. Bullocks do heavy haulage, for the horses are not very sturdy, and light of build. The land is tilled and in small portions and no space wasted. The furrows of vegetables etc, run and bend in all directions, resulting in a rather pleasing appearance. Women and men work hard, with back bent, weeding and hoeing.
----------------------------------------------- Staying at the HongKong and Shangai Hotel.
Shanghai.
28th May 1928.
I had a nice crossing by Dollar Liner "President Van Buren". I had the swimming bath to myself each day and did a few strokes, as I do not want young W.H.W to beat old W.H.W. yet! This morning early we entered the Yiangtse Kiang river and branched off up the Whangpoo to dock there, where I found it was Bank Holiday which is wasting me a precious day, as I want to get back again to Japan early next week.
It is a frizzling day, but not yet at its hottest. How these rickshaw men can pull one along, often stripped to the waist and no hat on their "pigtailess heads" I do not know, but I suppose nature provides a hard skull and a water jacket on the brain to cool it, like a motor !
The river is low now, tide out and crowds of junks lying in the mud, whilst on their decks, whole families are asleep in clusters. Their clothing bill at the tailors must be a very small item.
All is going about normally, plenty of Sikh Police with their black beards and our men in Khaki, ready for any of the rough element, who they keep fairly well in hand.
After the Japanese women with their high dressed hair, it is strange to see the women here with flat brushed hair, - and either black trousers or a straight cut dress. The men here, like Japan, carry and pull heavy weights; some wheelbarrows have one big wheel underneath and must take a lot of balancing when heavily loaded.
When first the wheelbarrow was introduced here, the labourers loaded it, and not knowing what to do with it, hoisted it upon their shoulders and carried it; a lot of their loads are carried in two flat baskets hung on the end of a bamboo pole, trotting slowly and shouting to clear the way.
MARUKI-MACHI not on the map, but near NAGANO, north of KARUIZAWA and near the Japanese Alps.
9th May 1928
Have had two days on the move and two more to follow. This country district is much more interesting than Tokyo and other cities. Last night after rising by mountain railway to 3,800 feet, through numerous tunnels and above deep valleys and ravines, we put up at Karuizawa, Hotel Mampai, a swanky tourist place, but empty, as the tourist season is hardly in swing yet. As it was raining, all was shrouded in mist and we could not see Mount Asama, a few miles off which belches steam, and occasionally fire.
Had a good bed and breakfas,t and this morning, though rather misty, it was fine, and went through some really fine scenery towards the "Alps". Great level valleys extend between the mountains and towards the lower country, and nearly every square is cultivated intensively by the farmers, who with wife, children, and labourers, work hard hoeing, weeding and sowing.
After finishing our business we got here, a small town renowned for hot springs and baths, - some free. In this hotel are private baths, tiled and marble, also a public visitors bath, about 7 ft by 4 ft, where the hot water never stops running through.
My English friend had his first experience of a Japanese meal and all being of the very best, he partook of most dishes. Yours truly did his share fully and to walk it off, we strolled out under the stars, in Kimono and wood geta, like a pure bred Japanese, - the latter are a bit hard on the big toe at first.
Am writing this on the floor and as we must be up at 5. a.m. tomorrow, must get to bed now 10. p.m. More Later.
6th June 1928.
From Nagasaki, a very old town, - at the approach to which, we passed a small rocky island in the sea, - earlier times, a great massacre of foreigners, I believe, Dutchmen, took place.
I had a 9 hour train ride, arriving at Beppu near midnight. Got to the hotel there and had a soak in a scalding hot sulphur water bath which helped to reduce the lumps left by the mosquitoes, - my face being one side heavier than the other. Had a goodnight`s rest and next morning another sulphur bath.
After breakfast, I took a circular bus trip, 1 yen (1/11p), and saw some hot springs which abound thereabouts. One was in a hollow surrounded by hills and vegetation.
I found Shanghai a very hot place, and was glad to get aboard the Empress of Asia, Friday evening 1st June, ready for next mornings sailing for Nagasaki.
I had arranged to meet some folks at the hotel, however, for the evening, to go to a Russian concert. As there was no tender until late, I had to get a Chinaman to row me across the Whangpoo river in a `Sampan`, and, being dark, was not sorry to get across in good order, we cut very closely across the bows of some barges. The entertainment was a good one, - some good Russian singers and some dancers with good music, a nice change after Japan.
Had a nice crossing to Nagasaki, the "Empress of Asia" being a lovely boat; the bites of the mosquitoes were the only drawback.
(Editor. - Here starts a new page of what appears to be the same letter judging by the paper, writing etc. But does appear to refer back to the earlier part about Beppu. The letters are written on a variety of papers and some are in pencil and some in ink, - so to continue)
It was the colour of sea water and boiled an egg in 4 minutes, being 215 degrees.. I had a drink, it tasted like sulphur water and Tartaric acid. You can write your name on a `kerchief` and on being put in the water, in three minutes it fastens the dye.
The name of this was Unii Jigoku, i.e. Sea Hell, - a good name. The next was called Chinoike Jigttu (Ed. ? sp) i.e. Blood Pond or Ruby Pond, 200 deg, hot and looked like pale blood.
At one place pale grey mud was bubbling up in the ground like porridge boiling. The hot geyser did not oblige by spurting that day. It is mountainous around Beppu and the town very sultry, hot water is cheap. The springs are good for rheumastism and skin troubles. The sand baths do not look tempting, being in a rather dirty corner of the stone breakwater.
On the tide receding, people go in, in thin bath kimonas, lie in a hollow (head on a block of wood) and a sturdy woman in a skirt and shirt, covers them with sand with a big hoe. The mineral springs send up heat and gives them a good simmering. After a certain time, they get up, go inside the bath-house, and have a shower, and then sit on the verandah, lightly clad to cool off, - and funny objects some of them look.
I got a Japan steamer at 1. p.m. and after a journey rather spoilt by haze, - although sunset was a treat, the water being apparently red - arrived in Osaka early next morning. The bunks were rather short, hard and narrow, being an old boat, - adapted for Japanese of shorter stature.
(Editor. At some stage, between the above and the next letter W.H. Webster (2) returned to England. One time he did this via Siberia, when it took him 17 days travelling in what was not much more than glorified cattle trucks. His knowledge of Russian would have been a great asset. It was probably when he finally returned from Japan, that he returned via Canada, when he visited his brother Herbert and his wife Annie, in Victoria B.C. Of which visit we have photographs), See later notes.
My dearest,
As you would see from my Radio to Curzon Street, - the crossing was not at all bad; it was cool and snowing, but quite calm. The cold was intense when we docked at Boulonge, but the train was warmer.
Meals are extra, - dinner cost 10/- and breakfast 3/4d. (3 shillings and 4 pence), and as we are late, shall have still two more meals to pay for in the dining car.
We were stopped for hours in the night, - a train in front, being off the lines. The mail train was behind. It will be bedtime therefore when we board the "Naldera". It is sunny here but a fair amount of snow.
I hope you and H. (Editor. - W.H. Webster (3) i.e. Harry) got through comfortably. If you get burst pipes when it thaws be ready to turn off the stop tap.
It felt awful leaving you all again, but cheer up, probably it is for the best.
Am feeling more rested now after a good rest, but the rug was useful as it became very cold in the night and I kept part of my clothes and my long stockings on.
Please send my policy to the Century. There are some large envelopes in my sideboard drawer or in the annex.
God bless you all and take care of you. Am sure the children (and Mary, the help, Ed) will do their best.
With love and kisses,
Your loving husband,
W.H.Webster.
P & O S.N. Co
S.S. Naldera.
19th February 1929.
My dearest,
We did not get away from Marseilles until dark, - 6 p.m. Saturday. It was not very cold and no snow. There were 7,000 bags of mails, from various directions to load, - some for India, Ceylon, Australia, and the Far East. About 100 labourers loaded them on to big strong nets, when they were craned aboard and dropped into the hold.
This boat is very full, for the reason that a boat was taken off for other duties. My cabin is very roomy, twice as big as our bathroom at home, with good lockers and a wardrobe. Have slept well. You would get my "Radio". ( Telegram). "Excellent" and therefore understand that I was quite well. 11 pence per word from the Mediterranean ( and only 10. 1/2d to America !)
It is rather a stiff and swanky crowd, but as games, - deck quoits, deck tennis etc, are getting into swing, it is improving.
Tomorrow, 5 or 6 p.m. we should reach Port Said, where about 30 disembark; I will post this there. I may be able to post again at Aden, 5 days later. If not at Bombay, March 1st, so you may not get any news from me until March 12 - 13th !! It depends on the mail back.
This is a good boat, but in the night a gale of wind sprung up, so one had to do a bit of balancing after getting up out of the bath. Many are not at breakfast. The steward congratulated me on being the only one at my table. The "fiddles" were on, and I as I sat down, the cruet, sugar basin and pots, slid down across the table to meet me. Just after we had an extra good roll, all the chairs slid as far as their chains would allow; cups of tea splashed over, but I was lucky.
My table is mixed, - a Syrian, and two men from Iraq, who often speak Aarbic or French together. One of them eats pickles by the saucerful, somewhat to the consternation of the waiters and has frequent helpings of the things he likes. Then there is a young American (his Mother and wife), who generally have a bottle of `Champagne`; he is richer than I; it is said he has about 40,000,000 dollars. It must be very useful when he wants to buy a pair of boots or a silk scarf !
I hope you are all quite well, and not bothering about the spring cleaning yet, according to the news, you have still got it cold, though a little less so.
This morning, we ran along for 3 - 4 hours under the lee of the Isle of Crete and the North wind was not so bad. Tonight, cool, but not rough. It was misty and wet as we passed through the Straights of Messini, between Sicily and Italy. Etna was covered in snow, but there was a cloud over the crater.
Not started perspiring yet, but by Thursday night shall be in the Red Sea. Am feeling in decent form now, and only sorry that we were not all having the trip together. The food is hardly as good and varied as on the "KHIVA".
A treveller of Fishers Wollen firm, who was formerly at Gledholt, but now in London, gets off at Port Said.
Well, cheer up, and children look after `Mummy` and each other.
With love and kisses to you all,
Yours affectionally,
W.H. Webster.
Footnote:- Our train was 11 hours late at Marseilles.
Letter to his eldest son.
P&O. S.N Co
SS Naldera.
My Dear Harry,
We are nearing the Straits of Bab El Mandeb in a gale of wind. The wind has gradually increased the last 48 hours and to walk round the fore end of the promenade deck, is like walking up Castle Hill, only harder, but it is sunny and the wind is warm. The boat is steady, only a slight roll. A few are in their cabins again.
I actually got up at 7.15. a.m. to have a turn around the deck. One man in shorts and bare feet, was running round the boat for exercise, - another athletic looking man was skipping; he had some fine legs and offered to lend me his rope, but after 27 years without skipping, I decided to not start again in a high wind and trip myself up.
Had a go at medicine ball last evening, then a warm salt bath, but it took me a long time to cool after.
At 4. a.m. they closed the portholes as the spray was coming in and so it was hot. Around the boat this morning there are rainbows, where the flying spray gets the sun on it.
I hope you keep well and are doing all you can to make the others happy; you are the only W.H.W. in the house just now !!!
Much love to you, Jack, Winifred and Roland. Ask Roland to make a fire of Teddy !!
(Editor`s note. :- Teddy was a family joke, R, kept recovering it from the dustbin)
Dad.
Red Sea. Southern End.
Sunday Morning.
24th February 1929.
My Dearest,
There has been little fresh since I wrote to you at Port Said. It has got a lot warmer and when I think of the cold and probably miserable weather you are quite likely having, I wish you were able to have a day or two of this sort by way of a change.
This trip is very awkward for my getting any news of you and the others, but I hope and pray that you are all well and happy. Today you will be just about getting breakfast, as we come out of service, or go to lunch. There is a parson on board, but the Captain takes the service and last Sunday there were a good number there.
The boat is not very still for writing. This will be posted at Aden tonight, - for the boat, - we are late, so I fear our stay in Bombay will not be more than a few hours. Letters from there (March 1st), will take about three weeks home, but it depends on catching the weekly mail.
God Bless and keep you all.
Fondest love and kisses,
Your affectionate husband,
W.H. Webster.
NOT PUBLIC.
SS Naldera.
7th March 1929.
My Dearest,
We are nearly in the Straits and after 1200 miles from Colombo have sighted land. At 11.30 p.m. we shall reach Penang (Malay Peninsula) on the island of Penang and leave 3. p.m. Friday for Singapore. A lot of passengers leave at Penang and we are gradually becoming emptier. E.T. Cooke of Bombay office is a decent chap, and gave me many useful tips about cotton. It was lucky he had the trip to Colombo on this boat, as we had litttle time in Bombay.
It appears that the Head Office, when appointing him Priestley`s successor, said they would settle his salary when he, (Cooke), came home on leave in May. Cooke, is at least, a little disappointed at them not giving him some increase at once. I told him they appreciated his services and would treat him alright; he finds living dear in Bombay. Priestley had, I think, £1500 per annum, and had of course, to keep himself.
I told Cooke that you would be pleased to see him, and wife and daughter, if they had time to visit you some day. They leave in the "Raupura" P&O (2nd class), I think is April 11th and arrive early May. They will be at Beech Hotel, Seymour Road, Bolton, Lancashire. His wife and daughter (14) are ladylike and he seems fairly at home in good society. He was at a cotton machinery firm, then a cotton manager, near St Petersburg, and speaks Russian and French; the latter is useful in Pondicherry, India, - a French colony. I fancy they will be in England 3 months or so.
It seems a dreadfully long time since I last saw you and Harry. 3 weeks only. I hope you are all quite well. Do not let anything worry you. I am A1; this heat clears impurities out of the pores and in a week or so shall be in cooler weather.
One needs plenty of water etc, to keep up the moisture in the system, but I am not going in the `Smoke Room` much, otherwise should spend more than I estimated.
There are various collections for the Seaman`s Friends etc. For sports, men had to contribute 15/- and women 10/- towards prizes and presents for Stewards decorating the Saloon etc, for Fancy Dress Dances. Am not dancing much, although there is one most evenings; it is too hot and most people are strangers. The second class seem to have a jollier time, and with them Dinner dress is optional, - in fact the 1st class is rather stiff, too much swank in some quarters.
How I would like to give you all a cuddle. !! Keep happy and cheerful together. Shall be so glad to receive your first news. Hope Mary is well. Boat rather vibrating this morning. Has a bit of list on as piles of mails are being got on deck for Penang. There 7,000 bags at Marseilles of mail.
With fondest love and kisses to you all,
Your loving husband,
W.H.Webster.
Editor. The following letter is from Curt L. Falian, a German, who lived in Japan for many years with his wife and children. W.H.W. was happiest when with them, as it compensated for not having his own family with him. In 1930, I, (Mrs Ritchie) was fortunate enough to have a wonderful 6 weeks with Mrs. Falian and the 4 daughters and Sensa the Japanese governess, at their home in Rottach-Egern in Bavaria, and went again after the war with Ann, my daughter. Mr Falian was by then dead.
Dear Mr Webster,
Hearty welcome to the Far East. We hope you will have a good time in Japan and that our co-operation will be a successful one.
After having talked over the matter together with Mr. Hiramatsu I think it would be best for you to make your permanent residence in Tokyo. Nevertheless, leave the steamer ,already at Kobe, in order to call on the customers in the Kwansai district. I think it is advisable to send your big luggage with the steamer to Yokohama, where we shall do the necessary, and to take only a small one with you. Please apply to the purser and try to get a Kobe-Tokyo first class ticket as you are leaving the steamer already at Kobe.
If possible I shall be in Kobe in order to meet you at the pier. I hope you have had an agreeable journey. With best regards, also from Mrs. Falian, Mr & Mrs. Steinfeld, and the whole "Kaisha"
" Auf Wiedersehen "
Sincerely yours,
Curt L Falian.
Editor:- The following are undated and are in Yorkshire dialect, and were in this position in the file. Holes were cut through the paper for filing purposes, so I have tried to make intelligent guesses where necessary.
Shanghayby
Royal Oak Day.
Aw feel sewer, ah`ve seen a real wick Mandarin to-day. Ah war strollin along t`Bund (that is t`chee`f street i` Shanghayby) thinkin to misen" ha diff`rent it wor to John Willyam Street i Hudersfi-eld, an ah saw a plonkin fat chap liggin back i a Rickshaw (one a them theer two wheeled sort o peramberlaters what thees `chinks` pull along t`rooads wi shafts-an by t`way ah feel as tho`aw oht te bring one of `em whoam fo t` lads to tak ther muther aht i Green heed Park in. Wudn`t they feelpraad o` thersens !).
Weel "am digressin as t` novellists say. This ere Mandarin for ahm absolewtely sewer he must a been one, for his skin wor blobby & slack, just lack a mandarin orang` - he wor leanin back int` rickyshaw until awthowt `e wad swat t` veecickle reight ovver & throw t`poor feller ovver his `ead - just like yer to do at Jew Jitsu ( tha`ts Japanese wrastlin tha` knaws).
Well ! ha summever that did`nt kum to pass - but ah nivver did see sich e wor weaned ! `e did an all !
Tha knows when tha kums to `t `Far East` it sort`a maksthi medditate. It t `fust place when tha gets wed ah dooant think it costd aht to put t`sperrins in - this means t` banns, as tha happen knows. Then tha sees t`wimmendooant weer so varry menny clooaz-an t`bairns not soa many as ther muthers, an t`man can stay at whooam an sup teea while his missis an`t bairns goa in a old boat to t`docks an shahts aht to t` milliyonairrs thro` Ameriky an Yorkshed - "Giv money fer a child - money for my child" !
Tha seez folk kan leearn that much of ahr lingo sooin & then they`re well away. Nah luke at wimmen folk ` ere. Lots a families liv i oold booats ont` watter. Nooh rent or rates, nooh larndry fo they just hang ovver t`booat side & shak t`dirt aht of t`clooaz int watter an then `ang emup ona clooaz line on`t booat, an t`sun draaz `e.
No ! I mun say t`wimmen earns ther keep int Far East. Ahm tooald that a Chinyman kan retire frum business on abaht £50, soah I must spoak to the missus abaht it - afore I wear mi brains aht thinkin hah to mak booath ends meet an tee!.
Abaht Kustoms Hofficers.
All folk what`s travelled out o wun cointry into anothher knaw what a kustoms hofficer is - they`re Government men & they knaw it, an they dooant gi thi a chonce to ferget it. Noa bah gum, they dooant an all ! They seeam to be plaiced wheear they are just to hannoy ivvrybody, an they do it reeight.
They mun hev idee that ivvrybody what travils is a boold bad smuggler, an t`diffikuklty is ter knaw ha ter sercumvent em, soa that they wiilenth upset all thi biled shirts an collar san mak creeases i` thi trasers wheear tha duznt want a creeas.
Nah, fo instans, yew `appen tra to mak thissen luk aimpler ne yewsual- which ah faans varry difficult - or tha wissels to thissen in a nonshallant way, wi lots of wat t`French calls "Sang Froyd", as if tha had nu gile abaht thi. Weel ! t` Kustoms feller sort o` gets hannoyed at yer treeatin iz job wi sich dissrispekt, an befor yer knaw wheear yer are e hez all o thi waadrob sprodden aht laak a milliners shop, when t`missis ez been to buy a yard o` ribbin.
On tother `and yer think o` treeatin in Kandidly an yer say "Ahve just sivrel cigarettes in that theear tin on`t top. Himmediately t`bloke smells a rat, soa t` speak, an dives to speak to t`bottom o yer trunk laak Kaptin Webb gooin ovver Nyaggerer Falls.
Anuther tahm yer stand still lak a statyew an nivver oppen thi maath, an then t`officer thinks ter hissen "This iz a deep feller" an e gooaz reight throo yer belongings, an at t`same toam keeps wun wether eye on yer pockets, to see if they`re bulgin aht wi boxes o` cigars or bottles o` waan, or Jonny Walker an sich like. Nah, if a wummen gooz throo t` Kustoms, she can offen wi impewnity, tak a lot o silk an ho de Kolon, fo t` natteral shivalry o` man maks im ezzitate t` rumming amang whot t`Paris fashion papers call `Lingeree`. In my opinyon ther oht to be wimmen Kustoms Hofficers for a change, then if a feller tuk off iz `at an sed "Mornin Leddy" wi a smilin Kountinaans, she`d stamp all iz Kabbin trunks before e `ad even got iz keys aht ov is pockets.
On t`other `and she`d `av a vivvid Komprehenshun of t`ways ov smuggelers ov er own sex.
Nah, if all hewmanity wor strait an skware soa te say, see ha much munny ud be saved. Noa Kustoms men, noa army an navy, noa prisons, loryers, an varry few Govverment offisshols, an wi t` Inkum Tax abaht 7d int paand as it wor in naanteenth centuary.
Ahl leeav off or thaal think ahm praichim a sarmon !
This ere train is very kumfy an when tha travels `dee lux` tha ez a Kompartment all to thissen an can wash int same as Royallty, nobbut t`wurst on`t iz, tha feels a bit lonely, laak a broody `en in a coop.
This morning t` restorant car wor crowded, an as a paap had bust, ther war a lot of steeam aboon yer `eead laak t`kitchen on a washin day. When I wer atim `am & eggs a long lawky feemale Kimm an sat ersen hopposit ter me, an shoo `ad one o`them lornettes to luk throo, wi sun eye. So shoo fixed it on mi laak yer do, when yer luk at a Koorio, an shoo sed "Can you tell me wathar we shall be late in Marsigh ?". "Well, Mum", sed I "Abaht 10 aars ah believe". "Oh deeah" shoo sed "ow awfull" The t`train gev a bump an almos toppled t`marmyled jar an spoonin inter er lap.
Then shoo fixed er double ee on ter me & laft. Then we run inter a tunnel & it wer dark, sooa ah struch a leet to see wot wer appenin & shoo war trying to find er mouth wi `er Koffee Kup. That double ee shoo made me a bit narvoos - it did an all.
Thers nowt lack travellin, tha wants to bekum a lingwist. I know sum French bi nah. When ah askt t`waiter fo "Kaffy O`Lay" he stared wi Hastonishment an ammost spilt some `lay` ar mi lap. Aal bet ee wisht at all foriners spake ther langwig laak aah did.
When tha sez "shut" in French, tha sez "Fairmay" which is very sensible, meanin - mak t`wood firm int oil ! When tha wants to say `Kowd` tha sez `Froyd` meanin thas afraid its not waam.
Ahm allus pleezed to learn sum French at t`Grammar schoil ! Tha knows theez Londoners waist a lot of taam , when they talk they say -` laarst, faarst, paarst, whethaaar, nevar, evaar, baaath, reaaaly` an so on. Ah must look at Webster`s dikshunery but ah feel sewer they are wrang; an then they a lot oftoaim aloaftaam when they spendsooa much taam on`t vowels.
This ere train is amost full, an most of em are young fellers in plus foors, whot think at all t`worldiz at ther feet.
By gum, but they`ll know a bit more abaht it when they get to ma taam a loaf, they`ll find at all t`woorld iz reddy to paws `em an ter waap ther feet on `em. Ah, its a funny woorld wi liv in,but thers a lot om us in it. Yes ! Bah Gum (Next meal is dee june ay)
(Editer:- Dad had a great sense of humour and had a fund of amusing stories to tell and kept a little notebook full of them).
Osaka.
26th March 1929.
Dear Everybody,
You must excuse pencil. Have a lot of business letters to write yet - 5. p.m, and get squared up for morning, as Mr. Falian came by this night`s train.
On the boat I got a radio from Tokyo welcoming me and also one from Osaka, - "Leyshokwans staff rejoicing at old friend`s return bidding him hearty welcome, good luck for stay in Nippon (Japan) stop, here fortnight, reserved room Takarazuka, Greetings Falian Leyshokwan". (Editor:- My father`s business was done though the firm of Messrs Leybold Shokwan Ltd).
Also on arrival Sunday morning Kobe was met by Messrs Hiramatsuu, Kameda, Muller & Ogino, with small Japanese and British flags (as a joke). Went to Takarazuka Hotel and took part of the luggage. Two trunks, I sent forward by boat to Yokohama, as I shall probably be there within the next 2 to 3 weeks.
I shall know my movements better to-morrow, have a lot to do, competition still keener.
On the boat there was a director of Platt Brothers and a member of Mitsui`s staff, London, coming here. Probably they expect orders. In July the hours are to be cut down in mills, from night and day, to 16 hours. 2 8 hour shifts. I think more machinery may be needed, but money is not very plentiful.
Rather showery, but fairly warm. Am feeling well, glad to say and hope all of you are.
No news from office except a wire from C. S & T (Chritchley, Sharpe & Tetlows) today, but no news from you yet. Perhaps a few letters will come together. Will write again this week.
Fondest love to all,
Yours affectionally,
W.H. Webster.
This letter is on Takarazuka Hotel notepaper; it is at Takarazuka, only 30 minutes ride from Osaka or Kobe by the Hankyu line, commanding the exquisite view of Takarazuka - Tel Nos 31, 109 (quoted)
28th March 1929.
Your long letter of 2nd March came just after I last wrote to you, 2 days ago. I went specially in Shanghai to P & O agents, to see if letters were there, but none. Fortunately I gave them my Osaka address. Many aboard were expecting home letters, but got none; Probably the Siberian mail over China was slow.
I am sorry you had such a cold time to Derby. Hope Winifred will have a good time there and get back safely & N & O (Norman and Olive Barber) will have a good time with you.
If Mr. Mollan calls again please give him my kind regards and tell him to make himself at home.
The cold must have continued a long time, and fancy the basin freezing when the gas fire was lit. I told you Tokyo for letters and I think anyhow Tokyo is right. Hope your throat is better and that spring time will put you on your feet properly.
Mr. Falian did not get here till yesterday morning and went back same night. He gave me a good welcome and said all Tokyo office were disappointed I was not going there first. I shall not be there till near end of April. They want me to do around here first. To-morrow shall be at Kyoto. Monday go to Nagoya and Gipu (Ed - ? not clear), back here for the week-end then 8-9 days here. Off to Nagoya again and North.
Shall be glad to get to Tokyo, as my two big trunks went direct there and have not much to change on.
Got an order to-day for Brighouse, but competition is keener than ever, am not making many plans for the future yet with Leybolds. We can tell better in a month or two.
Income Tax. I think perhaps you had better make an appointment with Womersley for a short talk at Halifax, unless he will come to see you at 109. Tell him I think you should fill in the Income tax form as 925 salary, and if they ask more questions, tell them what I get here is expenses from our agent and the figure cannot be estimated - that what I will get will be for my living and travelling whilst here.
If Mr. W. advises anything else, use your discretion, but I think it will be simplest, just to put down what you get as salary. I shall just draw money from Leybolds as I need it.
Kind regards to Mr. Morton, I think I sent P.C. to his correct address. Also kind .regards to Meads, Galloways & Harry`s friends. All I hope are well, but express my sympathy to Frank, - to him and his Mother, on his Father`s death; it is a big blow for them.
It is rather showery, but quite warm. Have to be on the go from 7. a.m until late, keeping outside and inside work up to date each day. Mr. Hiramatsu showed me a group photo of Osaka staff, they were about to send me. I asked them to post to you. It is very good and I think would like it framing, but the names on the back and signatures would have to be kept separate. I will write again soon but am tired. 9.30. p.m. Prospect must be in a bad way. (Ed. Name of a mill).
Fondest love to all and hoping all are well.
Your affectionate husband,
W.H. Webster.
Postscript.
Hope spring cleaning finished. Got letter of 7th March before the 2nd March letter. The Centuary will return the Power of Attorney alright.
Glad to hear R.H. are busier, kind regards to them. Good luck for H`s exams. Tell him to read through his answers in case of mistakes. Fox films - America - are making a lot of films in Japan.
Osaka paper says - `arrival - "Naldera" - etc. and finishes off - Mr. Smith, wife and children W.H. Webster` !!!
The letter below is on the back of the previous one.
Dear Harry, Jack, Roland, and Win,
Many thanks for H - R and W and Js letters and expert type writing. Glad that J. likes gymnasium and that R. is expert skater. (Ed. - This had been an exceptionally severe winter and the ponds in Greenhead Park froze over, so that we were able to skate there. The larger lake on which we skated has now been grassed over). Been very cold here this winter. You must all look after Mummy and take care and not get "flu".
Cherry blossom here is now starting.
Mr. Falian very pleased with the photo. Have not been Tokyo yet to give other things.
Yes there were some shoes and boots to pay at Hiltons; I told Mother at the time. Tell Mother the L & Y Accident Insurance cannot be deducted from Income Tax.
The Hotel here is quieter; most of the people that I knew have left. I expect to be at Omori Hotel next but send letters c/o. L. Leybold Shokwan, 520, Yusen Buildings, Tokyo, Japan, via Siberia.
Excuse this scrawl. Am going to bed. Much love & kisses,
Dad.
. Osaka.
1st April 1929.
I was glad to get yours of 10th March this morning, forwarded from Tokyo here, but am awfully sorry you have to see the Doctor, and do hope it may be nothing at all troublesome, for if it were it would be dreadful for us to be apart. By now you will know more and I am anxiously awaiting the next letter. If you have much expense any time with Doctoring, do not let that worry you; we will manage alright. (Ed. note - there was no Health Service in those days, so all Doctors etc, had to be paid).
I suppose the Booth you met in the train, would be the Technical School Booth. I think bad trade at home would "take more off my life" than being here where there is at least a chance of some - though difficult to get, and the weather is lovely now, sunny and just warm enough.
Yesterday had a few hours at Kyoto. It rained heavily in the evening. Saw some wonderful lacquer of all sorts. Cabinets at £550. a pair, (not the same style as ours - not carved in), - Chinese, also Jade stone, etc, etc, many thousands of pounds worth in one noted store.
Thanks to Roland and Jack for their well typed letters; One Japanese typewriter here has 2,000 - 3,000 letters on - will describe it later when I have seen it more. Glad the weather is fine and Roland is taking you walks.
I wonder if Harry can get from Mr. Booth a title of a good book on Winding and Twisting machinery? It may be in some other books on General Textiles; if there is one not more than about 10/-, please get it and I will send the money; wrap well round in Brown Paper - leaving the ends open and put a good gum label - typed address - to me in Tokyo - plain to read and register it. Postage 1d - 4 ozs. plus registration.
Well do take care of yourself. Excuse this pencil. Not much, not much time yet. It is Easter Monday but work goes on here just the same.
Love & kisses to all,
Your loving husband,
W.H Webster.
The enclosed the boys must treat as confidential. Burn those marked "Burn" and put others with my private notes on carding etc. in the drawer.
-------------------- Osaka
5th April 1929.
Dearest,
Yours of 17th March came this evening, from which I am pleased to hear that Roland is much better and hope by now he is as frisky as a kitten again. You do not say much about your appendix and kidney, but I hope neither are very serious, although I am afraid the latter is the worst. Does the Doctor say if either are likely to become serious? In any case you must carry out his instructions in every way, and above all do not overtire yourself, nor worry. Be like the Japanese, - if anything serious occurs, they laugh rather immoderately!! In any case do not worry about me, - am very well and so much to do that I`ve little time to think of anything but work. And above all, the people I work with appreciate one and take notice when I advise anything.
The blossom is coming out quickly, - almost in a night you see a tree develop blossom. And cherry blossom, - the next week or two, will be almost more important in the minds of many here, than anything else! Fancy the ice in Greenhead Park not gone; it must have been thick.
Last Wednesday was a National holiday; Muller and I went afternoon to Arima and had a radium bath, then by the new electric line to Kobe and at his little Japanese house in Okomato had a meal, after which he and a friend from their Embassy, gave me a lesson in chess, which after the mountain air almost put me to sleep!
Last Saturday eve had dinner at Tor Hotel, and afterwards a chat with Mr. & Mrs. Davey of Bailiffe Bridge, - a big Bradford cloth merchant, who has come to Japan for many years, - a few weeks at a time, then back. They leave April 16th via America. After their return Mrs. Davey may phone you to report on my health! Mr. Davey is big on free trade, but good company and older than I.
I hope Dora liked the trousers. When you have time, tell the Yorkshire Post to send me, to Tokyo, the Weekly Post direct. Will send you the money shortly.
Thanks for the news re Marchant, he is a Sykes man who travels a lot abroad to boom the name of Sykes!
This afternoon, Saturday,trying to get and doing a bit of reading at Takaraz-Uka and may this evening go to Kobe, - an hour and see if Smalley has arrived.
Good lad Jack, helping spring cleaning. Sorry some of you cannot come here and see them do it; will tell you about it later. Monday morning go to Nagoya, Gifu, Ogaki, etc, 4 days. Then back a week or two, before going to Tokyo.
Hoping to have better news from you soon, and with hugs and kissess to you and the children,
Your loving husband,
W.H. Webster.
Osaka
14th April 1929.
My Dearest,
This is just an extra letter enclosing a few spare copies, those on which I have not written "Burn", ask them to put in my private papers. They must not mention my sending these things, but if they read them through, it will help in their business education!
Mr. Falian came this morning for three days, so am not very free. To-night go to Tor Hotel Kobe, to dine with him and talk things over. There is a young fellow at the Tokyo office, - Mr Shuller, going shortly to Germany for a year and I may possibly take his little 3 roomed house, if I find it cheaper, but I would not say anything to the firm at present. In any case even if I do, I should be away at times, so the Leybolds would have to pay my expenses!
Mr. Falian said they had got a nice letter from you. Saw Davy and wife yesterday in Kobe, - they sail tomorrow, via Canada, and get home about middle May. Their address is Mr. Davy, Blankney Grange, Wyke, Bradford. Strange to say they do not seem to know the Sharpes of Scholes.
Hope all well. Love and kisses,
Yours lovingly,
W.H. Webster.
Osaka.
15th April 1929.
My Dearest,
Further to mine of yesterday, I missed mentioning what Mrs. Falian mentioned to you about a house; well it is pretty certain that I shall stick to hotels. In the first place, I am likely to be alternately in Tokyo, and Osaka, and in that case to have a permanent home, and keep on paying rent, as well as taking a room for a month or more at once in other places, would make it rather expensive.
I cannot tell you where I shall be most, until I have been in Tokyo a bit, and seen how the people are working there and whether I shall be doing anything in other departments. Again to have a house I should need to know some Japanese to be able to tell the woman what I needed. Mr. Muller here would be glad for me to join with him, but that, (though it would save some money) would not be possible, unless I was likely to be at least for months at once in Osaka, and there is never quite the same freedom and conveniences as in a hotel and change of company. Expecting Mr. Meissener back in a few weeks.
Fondest love,
Yours as ever,
W.H. Webster.
The Nagoya Hotel Ltd.
Nagoya, Japan.
12th April 1929.
My Dears,
As I am on the train and the dusk makes it difficult to see much, will write to catch to-morrow`s, - Saturday`s mail, as I know we have a lot today at the office.
It has been a rushing sort of week. Monday morning left the office 10. a.m. and have been on the go ever since, except an hour or two some evenings, when we were too fed up even to write letters. Sunday we had scarcely time for a proper lunch. We have managed to stay at a moderate (though old) hotel, in Nagoya, where a private bath could be had each morning, - tho` at the same time being the only non - Japanese hotel, they have a monopoly, so that breakfast was 4/-, a dinner with a drink and tip cost about 7/6d. My bedroom about 12/- a night. It has cost Kameda & me, in 5 days, near £20, so you can see Leybolds have lots of expenses.
We expect to see orders develop later, but practically only once in a hundred calls, do we find a customer who orders straight off, so you see it is not easy to keep cheery.
We have had a lot of rain and also cool weather, but the rain will do good after rather a dry winter. The land is beginning to assume a very verdant aspect and the cherry blossom is about at its best, and when you see a clump of trees like a mass of pale pink snow, it does compensate a little for the hardships.
We are returning this evening through a really fine bit of mountainous scenery and the train climbed gradually to - I think - at least 2,000 feet. Then we descended down a great gorge, where a river below was strewn with enormous boulders, some as big as our house at 109, rounded off and scratched by some convulsion of nature.
Then, in some bare patches of the hillside, the strata was of many colours, - brown, grey, pale blue, and a burnt red colour, - in layers. A little further on we passed a village - Kasagi - where there were hot spring baths, - probably iron.
We shall have a busy time writing out reports, attending to correspondence and then for 10 - 14 days Osaka. After that we go East again to Daishoji, near the North coast and back to Nagoya for a day or so. Thence to Hammamatsu & Shizuoka and reach Tokyo by the end of April, I hope, where I trust I shall find my other two trunks, no worse for being packed for nearly three months !!!
Saturday morning. 13th April 1929.
Back at the office. No letters from home, but trust "no news, good news". Much warmer here this morning. Have the Dunlop Rubber Co (Kobe) Technical manager - Mr. Legg coming to Takorazuka this afternoon for the day; he was on the same boat as I was.
Yours affectionately,
W.H. Webster.
Takorazuka Hotel.
19th April 1929.
My dearest,
I will write tonight as I have to be off early to-morrow Saturday, to a place 50 - 60 miles away, - Himeji and do not know what time I return, - probably towards evening, as those folk at offices always seem to have a lot of time to talk.
Between us I cannot complain of results so far; we have booked yen 1500 (£1400), in orders, most for silk cards and some for Aachen. Every time, however, we have to do a lot of price bargaining, for they seldom give the figure first asked. I want, however, to get to a turnover for a few thousands a month, and that will not be easy.
At Kobe to-day, I called at Mr. Langley`s warehouse, but he was out. I saw the Davy`s at the Tor hotel last Monday night, when I was with Mr. Falian for dinner. Mr F. was very kind. He said I must send their kindest regards to you all; he says they are anxious to get a good result for C.C. & B. (Editor:- Card, Clothing and Belting Ltd.) , in return for their sending me out and he hopes we can later plan some means by which I can make some extra money to compensate for me being away from home. This is of course confidential, however, as nothing is definite yet.
The house question has been shelved; we cannot see anything certain as to my headquarters yet, so I shall be in Omori Hotel, for at any rate a month or so.
I hope H. has passed his exam. If not, tell him not to worry; I know he has tried hard. I wish Japan was nearer, for as regards work, altho` very trying at times with the customers. I must say all Leybolds are particularly decent to me , both German and Japanese. Their staff is now bigger, well over 100 all together and their offices are not big enough.
It is beautiful around here, lots of blossom, and all green. Sunday evening I go to Tor-Kobe, to dine with the Dunlop man. His hotel bill alone is over £400. a year.
I hope Jack is learning well and all going smoothly and that you are well and happy.
Fondest love and kisses to all,
Your ever loving husband,
W.H. Webster.
<<< photo >>> Shanghai to Kobe - Sept 17 - 19th 1928.
N.Y.K.
Nippon (Japanese)
Yusen
Kaishe.
This boat is one of the two fastest on the China route, but tho` Japanese, was built in England. 5,000 tons, 20 knots an hour, very clean and comfortable and extremely varied food and good European menu.
---------------------------- My Japanese Business Card. Left side :- Front. Right side:- Back with translation.
The Zushi Hotel.
Kanagawaken,
Japan.
Telephone:- Zushi No 72.
30th September 1929. Bi t` Sea.
Weel! ah kan `aardley waat fer laffin at missen, an tha wad`nt beleeve it a` Saturday, ah went to bed at naan pee `em til Sunday at naan foerty foar pee em, but ah flaid ah sall beat that rekord, to neet, an goa at 8.30 p.m.
Noa! doant be ankshus, ahm not dotty, ah ahm noan ill, but ahve nowt else ter do.
Tha seez its this way, after being amangt `Chinks a Shanghayi, an all t` bustle an rush of a great city, an then `avin te tak caster ooil twaas tha knaws wot that is, its that stuff thi muther maks thi sup or swaller whaalshi nips thin nooas, bekos tha`s a pain i`thi little Mary, - weel after that, an a wek or soa i Osaka, an travellin all t`neet i a `ot sleeper, ah thowt a weeak end at Zushi an a bit o` sea bathin wad soort o` resussitate mi afore ah settles dahn o Tokkyo, soa ah branched off to `ere, but found t`seeason abaht ovver, an nobbut a few fowk ere.
Two of em beein fancy `oneymoonere, - we cannot rekkon at all, fo` they spend mooast oft toam lukkin into each other eean to watch t`chaangin colours, kum an goa, an spakin i`wispers, - wot abaht ah doant knaw, but ah expect abaht each uther.
Then Mr. M. an t`waaf, thro` t`office, av a temperary `ouse ere an kum ere fo` summer toeeat but as they`av a couple o` young bairns, they dooant stay se long.
Then ahv nowt ter reead, but t`newspapper, altho` to-day ah broht a `appy mag - thro` t`office, sent mimthro `ooam.
Tha knaws ah want ter leearn ter swim, before thaat nipper o` maan, ahr Roland, fo` ah dooant laak not te be able to do `oht that bairns can, but it war very aggranoying, that ma cabin trunk wor sent t`wrang way bi`a porter and nobbut just kum. Fo` mi bathing suit, razor, short britchers, umbrelly, makintosh, bacca an uther stuff ah needed (fo its kum on cool an stormy) wor in`t.
Weel o` Saturda ah vamped a spechul rig aht, wi a cotton vest an short pants, donned mi kimona, steeped aht oft `otel on to t`sands, an after dippin mi tooa in` t`watter an finndin it nooan se varry kowd ah struck aht fo`t`direkshun o` Ameriky. Ah did bi gum. There was nobbut Mr. M. wi mi te see it, but `e said ahd dun varry weel, amost ten metres, soa ah Roland`el en te buck up or `eel never keetch up!
Ah. I arranged wi a feller ti flooat abaht ageean at six ay em, this marnin, an ah wakkened at 5.55, but `e slept whal 6.30. soa as ahd parted mi toppin naas an teady, t`train went t`Tokyo early, ah gave it up, an nah mi trunk`s wis kum, an mi new bathin` kostume, ah sall appen mak a rekord swim t`morn. Aan
t`next day beein a National `oliday, ahm stoppin `ere t`neet, ter swaller sum fresh air.
On Saturda neet, t`folk sed a little earthquake rattled ther beds; `appen it wor mah snorin, oonyha ah nivver wakkened far it.
T`sands ere abaht are not soa yeller as ahrs but darker i` kular, ah think volcanic deposits amang t`sand.
We`ev just a few moskeeters left to baht us, but nooan soa many nah, an int`watter nah an thena a few jelly fish, but ah`ve bin lucky, fur they say they can sting!
Bah gum, but its amost nahn o`clock, ah must goa t`bed, all t`dooors are locked by nah.
It seeams as if summats radikally wrang, - me gooin te bed at this toam of t`evenin, - it duz an all!
On the Train. No date.
Last night got to a town in pouring rain, hot weather. The hotel we went to was old, and in a garden full of trees, in fact one old tree was built round at an angle of the hotel. There were swarms of mosquitoes at the entrance where we sat on the step to take off our shoes (where they remained until morning when we left). We were the only guests!
Being 11 p.m., - no bath, (for a wonder), only in use in the evening, but I got a cold dowse under the tap this morning, which was better than their boiling hot baths, for it is the "Nyubai" - wet season and somewhat steamy!
After a sticky elastic sort of cake and some green tea, - first having donned the kimonas provided, we settled down, having not the round mosquito net, but real Japanese nets, suspended at each corner of the room and hanging down like a square tent and of dark green. Mine had no holes, but through that of my Japanese traveller, a few mosquitoes found their way, so with that and my occasional snoring, he had rather a disturbed rest, - altho` he had drawn the sliding door between our rooms, close to.
Had breakfast on our haunches, - vegetable and seaweed soup, other vegetable, fried eggs and rice, washed down with the usual green tea. Fried eggs are not easy to eat with `hashi` (chopsticks) but I packed it away, to the great amusement of my man and the servant. I asked for "Atsui Mizu" (hot water) for shaving - Atsui is hot, but it appears Mizu only means "cold water", so I was asking for "Hot Cold" water !!
There are thousands working in the rice fields, standing in a foot of water and mud, planting the young shoots of seed rice (about 10 ins apart); they look like fresh blades of grass, about a foot long. On their heads the peasants wear wide straw hats, like small umbrellas to keep off the sun and rain, and they work with their backs bent for weeks, hoeing, planting, weeding etc, always putting in the young rice in the wet season.
Along the shore, passed many natives bathing, - often with, - "noddings on" and with skin as brown almost as mahogany. In the country they are out in the sun so much that they get very tanned. Also saw big pebbles or small boulders, almost blood red, evidently of volcanic origin on the shore.
Everything now very green on the country side, but after hot the months of July, August and early September, it becomes bare and brown.
W.H. Webster.
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